Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Bunica Vicki





You remember Vicki, right? (my cleaning lady-cum-romanian teacher). Today as she was holding Charlotte, I said to her "Tu esti o prietena de Charlotte." (You are Charlotte's friend.) To which she replied, "Nu sint prietena, sint bunica." You can understand so much from context. I had never heard the word "bunica", but it was clear what it meant: "grandma". (I'm not a friend, I'm grandma!) So the girls have a proud Romanian grandma. And Vicki, who does not have grandchildren, now has three little blond american ones. (Don't worry, Gigi and Nana--you two are irreplaceable!)


Actually, the girls could probably claim two romanian "grandmas". This is Elena, who also comes and cleans. She has no children of her own--I have a hunch she would gladly claim us.


Vicki's room in the basement of the apartment building. Ava asked her where she lived -- I did my best to translate, and the result was a tour of this room, all twelve-by-six feet of it.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Favorite Playground






Last week we discovered a super-duper playground at Kiseleff park. It's got it all: swings, teeter-totters, play houses, jungle gyms and the one thing that really matters if your name is Ava: ice cream. There are always lots of kids to play with, and for me, I've been able to practice three different languages while watching the girls. (I met a grandma from Germany, a mom from the UK, and lots of Romanian children who think it's normal that I want to count numbers with them.)

Monday, September 28, 2009

"We're In Transylvania!"

The whole day, Ava kept asking "Are we in Transylvania yet?" We left Bucharest Saturday morning, heading for the village of Bran and it's castle, touted as Dracula's castle, but not really. The 16th century prince Vlad the Impaler later became associated with the Dracula legend because of his bloodlust, but his castle is actually elsewhere. Regardless, Ava was excited to visit "Dracula's" castle in her own real life Scooby-Do adventure.

Nuns exiting the monastery at Curtea de Argis, a stop along the way to Bran. The place was all a buzz because the President of Romania was coming to visit. Normally, it is not a functioning church, but the priests were performing ceremonies that day.


According to legend, the mason who built this church was required by tradition to bury someone alive within the stone walls to ensure the success of the construction. So he told his crew one day that on the morrow, the first of their wives to come bring lunch would be the lucky sacrifice. Ended up being his own wife who was the early bird. These walls became her new home.


The amazing interior of the orthodox monastery.



One of the reasons it takes 6 hours to travel 250 km (about 150 miles) is that you have to share the road. We were absolutely delighted when this flock of sheep surrounded us. I suppose the novelty wears off, because the local traffic seemed trying to plow over the little ewes.


The beautiful Bucegi mountains and valleys.


At last, "We're . . . in . . . TRANSYLVANIA!"


Rockstar can wave and says "hi" and "bye" when she wants to show off. Here, she practices on the townsfolk of Bran, who were very receptive.


The balcony of the castle's inner courtyard.

To get this view, we had to climb this (that's Ava at the top, high-tailing it out of there, fueled by Daddy's spooky noises):

Ravasitul Oilor is the festival drawing the crowds beneath the castle. Here we celebrate the homecoming of the sheep from the mountains.

Booth after booth, it was meat, cheese, meat, cheese (all of the sheep variety, of course).

For the superstitious, necklaces of garlic for immediate purchase.


Spellbound.
"We are in Transylvania; and Transylvania is not England. Our ways are not your ways, and there shall be to you many strange things." Dracula


We stayed overnight at this pensione in nearby Zarnesti. Charlotte overindulged in the sheep cheese and was up four times during the night. Yawn.

Audrey digs in to the traditional breakfast: tomatoes shaped like strawberries, boiled eggs, fresh cheese, onion, cured bacon, bread and warm milk.



Friday, September 25, 2009

Tennis, anyone?





Tennis, karate, and next week ballet starts. Ava has quite the schedule and she loves it. The tennis lesson starts with warm up laps around the clay court, stretching and then they pick up their rackets. Ava likes tennis because "you get to hit the ball." That's the idea anyway!

(We'll be going on a little trip this weekend, so no posts 'til Monday . . . see you then!)

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Lunch

I had braced myself for a few months without my staple diet of beans and tortillas. (I filled up at my neighborhood tacqueria Tacos Los Altos three or four times the week before leaving San Francisco.) All this before I knew I would have a Mexican food safety net at Hard Rock Cafe, just a few blocks from our apartment.

Nowadays, instead of a burrito, my lunch looks like this:

Fresh bread and cheese, truly I am not suffering. Romania does lots of meat: You could get lost amongst the deli cases (I'll have to take that camera next time . . . .)

Charlotte enjoying Daddy's red sauce. Chad loves making it with the tasty yet inexpensive italian canned tomatoes.

Cornflakes, but they are a little bit "meatier", with a slight puff, so they're not paper thin. The girls love them.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Confession


I have to confess, I really enjoyed my lunch at Hard Rock Cafe. We really had no intention of frequenting two international chains within our first two weeks in Bucharest (for shame!). So here's how it happened:

After enjoying the kiddie rides at the amusement park, it started to rain. Very innocently, we took refuge under the awning of the Hard Rock Cafe, which was conveniently next to the carnival. The plan was for Chad to run and fetch the car while the girls waited under shelter. Plans swiftly changed when I saw It. That picture of a glorious platter of nachos on the menu posted outside.

It was lunchtime, we were hungry and the rest is history.

Macaroni and cheese, please.

Complimentary face painting by in house witch.

I had no idea what a museum of rock and roll this place is!

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Flea Market a la Belle Epoque

This was not your ordinary flea market. Most all the vendors were selling items from the belle epoque, the time from the late 1800s leading up to world war I when Bucharest was the "Paris of the East".

Doesn't the porcelain figurine remind you of aunt Theresa's?

Some of the vendors were even dressed to impress.

My belle epoque babe.

My wish list has turned into a book.

Monday, September 21, 2009

An Evening at the Symphony (Or a Lesson in Bribery)


It was the final weekend of the George Enescu festival at the symphony, with performers from all over the world descending on Bucharest for the event. Saturday's 10:30pm performance was the Vienna Chamber Orchestra. When we arrived at the symphony we couldn't find the box office. There were a couple of scalpers who approached us with tickets, but they were asking too much. I befriended a group of Romanians who told me the performance was sold out. Monika, in her perfect English, told me they did not have tickets either, but had their "methods" of getting in. Interesting.

As performance time approached, the scalpers disappeared. Then there was, we'll call him "Radu." Radu was wearing a nice smooth black leather jacket, smooth like his cleanly shaved head. Radu said he could get us in. "Do you have tickets?" Chad asked him. No--no tickets, but he could still get us in. We didn't quite understand, but before we knew it, we are following Radu over to the side of the building to the performers entrance. A small crowd of people had begun to form there. My new friend Monika also migrated that way. Radu told us to wait a minute . . . he entered the building and when he came back to the door, motioned to us. A lady shoved her black sequined purse in front of me, trying to edge her way in. Ah, but don't mess with Radu. Grabbing my wrist, and chiding her in Romanian, he pulled me past the lady and into the building.

We follow Radu up the several flights of spiraling stairs where we see an usher at the closed door. He says a few words to her, comes a few steps back to us and explains that we can't let the usher see the "exchange." We make Radu happy, the usher opens the door, and that my friends, is how you get into a sold out performance in Bucharest.

Built in 1888, the concert hall is so small and charming. It's actually inside the top of the building's rotunda and has wonderful acoustics (no corners for sound to get lost in!).

The foyer below the rotunda.

Scenes from Romanian history are painted in the round of the concert hall. Our friend Monika also made it in and sat behind us (it's open seating). During intermission I asked her who was that man that brought us in. She said he has a friend who works at the symphony. We figure they split the proceeds and that's how they supplement a meager income.

Buttercream, blue and gold-- a celestial color scheme and one of my favorites!

Sunday, September 20, 2009

550 Years Bucharest Celebration

It's been 550 years since Bucharest was first mentioned in print and to celebrate, the city has pulled out all the stops. Happy "Birthday" Bucharest!

Saturday's festivities started with a stroll through Herastrau park and a fashion show of traditional Romanian attire.

Amazing handwork! The material is a lightweight loose cotton weave, I believe . . . two years went into creating this blouse. Thousands of teeny tiny stitches counted over the fabric threads results in an asking price of 300 euro. I must visit the moldavian region where they make this . . .

Next stop, the amusement park.

Live ammo! A round of BB-gun marksmanship at the arcade. (Yes, there is a warning written above the targets explaining that the gun should never be pointed at "persoana".)

Swan lake

First ride on the metro as we head downtown for more festivities.

Heading to the celebration in front of the HUGE (second largest building in the WORLD) Palace of the People.

Street closed for carriage rides!

In front of the Palace were lots of vendors selling traditional Romanian handicrafts.


Guess which doll I want (naturally, the most expensive one)

We purchased hand-carved spoons with kissing birds beneath an owl symbolizing love guided by wisdom.




This sweet bread, shaped like a large, hollow cylinder, is finished by rolling it in your choice of nuts and sugars. Yum-yum.

Time to go home!